Anders Hanson

When I moved to Aberystwyth I was told by Mark Williams, now the Lib Dem MP for Ceredigion, that although I might not realise it yet, I would fall in love with Aberystwyth. He was right, I did.

I only spent nine months living in Aberystwyth, but I loved being there, and despite having lived in other places before and since, I can never quite leave the town alone. An article in The Independent on Sunday yesterday managed to sum up quite a few of the reasons why this is the case.

Aberystwyth is completely unique in the UK. It manages to be both big town Britain and small-time rural Britain all in one place. It has a thriving university, whilst also being the centre for local farmers. It is in a majority Welsh speaking area, whilst also having a large English community. It is miles from the nearest major city, and yet includes some of the most important national institutions both in Wales and the UK. It is both beautiful and ugly. Cosmopolitan and parochial. It is quite simply a huge jumble of different things and that is why I love it.

The article in The Independent picked out some places in the town that I also love. But I would also like to give a bit of a push to some others:

• Parc Natur Penglais. The most popular place to get a grand view of the town is the top of Constitution Hill. But further along just above where I lived in North Road is a park that stretches up Penglais Hill. It includes winding paths, heathland and woodland. It also includes seats and rocks to sit on and is wonderful on hot days as it faces south across the town.
• The end of the promenade under the war memorial. This is the point where the prom turns from running roughly southwest to running south, and at it there is what feels like a little promontory of paving that sticks out in to the sea . On a stormy day it is remote, bleak and invigorating. On a calm day it is warm, sunny and relaxing.
  
• Tanybwlch. Visitors to Aberystwyth know the main beaches along the promenade. Tanybwlch is the beach to the south of the town on the other side of the harbour. It is reached by following a small residential street off the main road at Trefechan and it comes to an abrupt end by the bridge over the River Ystwyth. This beach is pebbly but great to walk along as it is empty but beautiful.
• South jetty of the harbour. This is reached from Tanybwlch beach and is used mainly by people fishing. It is a great spot to see the comings and goings of the harbour, with the sea lapping against the jetty.
• Mecca Coffee Houseon Chalybeate Street. Possibly one of the best coffee shops in the country and a town institution. I loved drinking their mochas.
• Rummers on Bridge Street. My favourite bar. It is in an old boathouse by the River Rheidol, and has a lovely outdoor terrace. The bar itself is down some steps, with a low ceiling and with sawdust on the floor. Its customers are a complete cross-section of the town - young and old, Welsh and English, locals and students, and many more things too. It often hosts live bands on a Friday night, but beware as it is often packed and on warm days it gets absolutely roasting.
• Cae Melyn. It seems odd to name a residential street, but I got to know this road by delivering leaflets there during the Welsh Assembly elections. It is a complete mix of houses, but quite a few are unusually designed 60s and 70s modern homes that are in complete contrast to the rest of the town. My mistake was to deliver the road in the dark the first time. It is a switchback road that runs up a steep hill, and the gardens are so long that by the time you get to the letterbox you’ve fallen down a hole that you didn’t see in the dark.
• The alleyways and yards of old Aberystwyth. Behind the main roads are all sorts of hidden alleyways and streets, where there are houses, businesses or even historic buildings. The best one is the one that goes from the promenade, up some steps and then comes out near the back of the library. Most people don’t know it is there, but on the short walk you end up stumbling on parts of the old town walls.

On another day I will also list the must-see places elsewhere in Ceredigion. But suffice to say, I have fallen in love with Aberystwyth and the surrounding area. Unfortunately I had to move away after only a short period of time for job reasons. But since then I have stayed in touch, and have plenty of friends in the area.

THE INDEPENDENT: Aberystwyth: little city on the coast